AW15 Admiral Coat (Vintage Tweed)

Whether through cold calculation or mere serendipity Visvim in 2016 continues to operate as an anomaly. They do so by quietly pursuing greater market share by means of remaining a niche brand. This seemingly contradictory strategy allows for greater creative license while maximizing revenue, quite an envious position.

As the brand popularizes and becomes fodder for the inevitably unimaginative masses it can be argued that Visvim’s offerings would suffer as well. Even when catering to the lowest-common-denominator customer through offerings such as the Thorson bomber or Sanjuro Down Jacket, the brand still maintains its self-respect.

When we venture beyond the crowd favorites we’re treated to productions whose level of refinement and experimental accomplishment are unmatched. Case in point is the Admiral Coat from Fall 2015.

Unavailable at trunk shows and receiving nary a word of promotion this piece is the ultimate sleeper. Of course who would pre-order a coat which had a US retail of $4k without even seeing it? It’s a wonder it was ever produced.

Aptly tagged as Vintage Tweed the outer is a coarse wool-linen blend. This material possesses an uneven depth resulting in a texture much like classic Scottish tweed. It’s also a weighty material giving the coat substantial heft. In fact it weighs almost as much as the sheepskin Lhamo Robe.

The lining is comprised of the AW15 flagship weave most notably used for the Iris Liner jacket. This mohair-wool blend was a source of pride for the brand and compliments the rugged exterior of the coat.

The cut and design is fairly traditional on first glance but upon further inspection one observes a curious approach. The proportions are slightly oversized reminiscent of a duffle coat. The voluminous cotton-linen lined hood adds to this impression as does the pleated upper sleeves and full sized waist pockets. Initially the belt seems an unnecessary after-thought or accessory but in this instance it suits the piece well.

Also of note is the modular aspect as it buttons and pairs with an Iris Liner by design. This pairing will provide more warmth than any piece of outerwear I’ve come across. Although the sheer weight of this option would prove almost untenable for long walks it would serve well for standing around during winter months.

Special thanks to Gian for the suggestion.

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2 comments

  1. Maxime Laubeuf

    is it a size 4 just like your Iris ? If not do the button holes match each other ?

  2. Is your iris the same size ? If not do the button holes still match each other ?

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